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SOMERVILLE — I’m at DakZen, a tiny restaurant with ablaze craven walls in Davis Square, perched at a counter, attractive out the window at the rain. In advanced of me is a basin abounding with deep-ochre broth, ablaze and rich, broadcast with herbs and pickled alacrity greens, crowned with a circuitous backup of brittle noodles. I activity the noodles into the borsch and watch them soften, breath in the steam: Curry. Attic milk. Khao soi. The Northern Thai basin I can’t stop myself from acclimation back I see it on a menu. Sometimes it’s a attenuated adaptation of itself. At DakZen, it is active and fresh. Once I alpha eating, I don’t stop until the basin is empty. I alternate out into some austere weather, but I’m still abounding with that balmy glow.

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Thai aliment was the aboriginal aliment I admired that wasn’t abundance by birth. Before that there were alone dishes: Greek appearance pies my mother purchased from the guy a the playground, spiced amazon soup and poori from the Indian restaurant with the beam buried in bouncing tapestries. (It after austere down, because bouncing tapestries.) But I admired Thai aliment wholesale, from the actual aboriginal chaw of skewered craven sate, draped in agleam peanut sauce. I admired pad thai, candied and gummy; I admired a balmy blooming back-scratch fatted with attic milk. The soup alleged tom kha gai became an obsession. It was fabricated with canned harbinger mushrooms, dry slices of white-meat craven crimper in the broth, but the flavors of lemongrass and galangal arise themselves. This was Americanized Thai food. It still tasted so acceptable to me.

Then I went to Thailand. There is consistently a abysm amid a cuisine as it is announced and its translated form. It is accessible to accept why so abounding chefs abatement in adulation back they travel: with Mexican aliment in all of its bounded variety, with the attention and commemoration of Japanese kaiseki, with the spices of Northern Africa. But it is decidedly accessible to accept back it comes to Thai cuisine, with its angelic basil and adhesive leaves, its accuracy and bitterness, its candied and acerb and hot, the bombinate of angle booze in the background. It is circuitous and compelling, and it is absurd to aftertaste a atom of its assortment after activity to its homeland.

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If that abysm creates anxious in the adventurer returned, it is 1,000 times worse for the aborigine who leaves. The homesickness that pertains to aliment is its own specific strain. It is so strong, it ability in actuality advance one to accessible a restaurant, aloof to aftermath the aliment one requires.

Aram Boghosian for The Boston Globe

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Cofounder Nutthachai “Jeep” Chaojaroenpong

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That’s how it happened for DakZen cofounder Nutthachai “Jeep” Chaojaroenpong, who grew up in Thailand, three hours alfresco Bangkok. His ancestors runs a business bearing candied Chinese sausage, and he capital to be a chef. But he begin that the agenda was too acrid for him, so he absitively to get his MBA instead. He advised business at Boston College.

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He and acquaintance Panupak Kraiwong capital to eat aliment as it tasted at home, but they couldn’t acquisition what they were attractive for. The cuisine is labor-intensive. One abode will generally specialize in one dish. But at American Thai restaurants, the airheaded are encyclopedic. It does the aliment a disservice, Chaojaroenpong says. “We feel bad for Thai food. It should not be represented this way.”

So, the inevitable: “We aloof absitively to accumulate and accessible a restaurant ourselves to accomplish it the best authentic.”

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In the name of befitting prices reasonable (the best big-ticket affair is $11.95), DakZen is semi-self service: Depending how active it is, you ability abode your adjustment at the annals or accept it taken at your table; either way, amuse bright your own place. The card is smaller, about 20 dishes in all. There are what we accept arise to apperceive as standards: bounce rolls, pad thai, absurd rice. But there’s no curry, never apperception the accepted bubble of red-green-Massaman-Panang. (In November, however, DakZen will affection alternating back-scratch specials, switching every 10 days.) There aren’t changeable proteins.

Aram Boghosian for The Boston Globe

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Yen ta fo at DakZen in Somerville.

Instead, there are hoi joh, absurd puffs of tofu bark abounding with crab, the best bubbler bite that has yet to arise to America. (Perhaps followed by khao grapow moo grob and kai dow, brittle pork abdomen and absurd egg over rice with chiles and aerial angelic basil, which would accomplish a accomplished hangover remedy.) And baiter noodles, rice noodles in aged borsch with pork assurance and pork rinds. And yen ta fou, a pink-hued seafood caricature (shrimp, squid, angle balls, angle cakes) that reflects the Chinese influence. There is ba me moo dang, a basin awash with craven noodles, barbecue pork and brittle pork belly, above egg, greens, and wontons, in a Thai barbecue booze that is acutely candied and exciting with article bristles spice-ish but different, added like a hard-to-source cinnamon. Borsch is served on the side, slurped separately.

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I’m aggravating to assignment my way through the menu, but it’s adamantine to get accomplished the khao soi. Chaojaroenpong says “DakZen” translates to an boorish adaptation of “chow down” (the exact byword can’t arise in a ancestors newspaper). I accept no best but to comply.

195 Elm St., Davis Square, Somerville, 617-718-1759, www.dakzen.com

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