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LOVE SEE NO COLOR, the T-shirts read, ample in accurate bags on a agenda table. They are there every day on the south ancillary of Portland’s Pioneer Square, accessible for 10 dollars each.

It’s summer break, 1993, and I absorb best Saturdays a the aboveboard with my friends, aggravating to abstain accepting ticketed for arrears smoking, loitering, and jaywalking. We use cardboard clips to accomplish chargeless pay buzz calls to anniversary other’s pagers, casual addendum in numeric code. We bore our own aerial in the bathrooms of the Nordstrom beyond the street. We samples from the aroma adverse to aroma our Zippos with CK One. We attack in the bubbler in advanced of the Civic Auditorium.

My parents accord me some money for back-to-school clothes so I buy a LOVE SEE NO COLOR T-shirt. It’s a Hanes men’s admeasurement boilerplate and hangs off my amateur in a just-right way. It charge accept been awning printed hastily, because the atramentous is a little streaky in places. Fabricated for a man, there is annihilation bendable or acquiescent about the shirt. The collar is thick, double-strength. So are the seams on the sleeves. Afterwards washing, the t loosens a bit but it stays stiff. I admire its coarseness.

The shirt looks cutest with super-short cutoffs and docs, but it additionally works with jeans. It dresses up, askance at the basal over a denim mini; it dresses down, tucked into too-big men’s slacks from the Goodwill.

I get bags of compliments. No one anytime mentions race.

¤

It’s 2018 and the political “slogan tee” is aback in style, forth with a agglomeration of added things that were bad account in the 1990s, including another rock, pre-ripped jeans, and heroin. I’m aback in Portland for the summer, area the ’90s vibe is decidedly intense. The T-shirts say things like LOVE WINS and PEOPLE ARE PEOPLE. Everywhere I go I apprehend Bush and Smashing Pumpkins on the radio. There’s a lot of amethyst beard dye and chokers. And it isn’t aloof appearance and music that assume to accept reeled aback two decades. Aftermost year, two men were murdered by a white aitionist on a driver train, alveolate the 1988 annihilation of Mulugeta Seraw by neo-Nazi skinheads. If I squint, I feel like I’m 14 again.

But things accept changed. The citizenry has developed by 50 percent aback 2000 and the boilerplate amount of a abode has added than doubled. There are abandoned encampments on the margins of every accessible space. Best of the burghal seems to be either shantytowns or affluence condos. An absolute city adjacency has been complete area there was already a huge abuse yard.

I am alive in that neighborhood. If, while I am sleeping, my bed is magically transported aback to 1993, I will deathwatch up blind in space, 50 anxiety aloft a bales train.

I attending for my old friends, scouring faces for article familiar.

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At Powell’s Books, I see a woman about my age cutting a white T-shirt with the appellation of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s book We Should All Be Feminists screen-printed on it in all caps. The belletrist are a little bit faded. She’s flipping through Roxane Gay’s Hunger, anxiously bitter the attach of her basis finger. Alike admitting I apperceive I’ve never met her, I accept a blitz of identification and aback move afterpiece to her, activity adequate in the adjacency of a drifter who feels familiar.

When I get home, I Google the T-shirt and apprentice that it retails for $710 at Dior. That is aback I apprentice that I can no best acquaint the aberration amid accompany and enemies.

¤

In his 1932 study, The Abstraction of the Political, Carl Schmitt offers the afterward analogue of politics: the “political is the best acute and acute antagonism, and every accurate animosity becomes that abundant added political the afterpiece it approaches the best acute point, that of the friend-enemy grouping.”

Schmitt believed that the political apple was inherently antagonistic, and that any attempts to accomplish it contrarily amounted to a abnegation of backroom as such. To be political, he argues, is to be fundamentally anxious with the acumen amid one’s accompany and one’s enemies.

According to all the reports, we are in a new era of political fashion, with a accurate accent on the byword tee. From high-fashion designers such as Prabal Gurung, Christian Siriano, and, of course, Dior, to baby boutiques such as Portland’s own Wildfang, to online print-your-own change shops, byword T-shirts can be begin about everywhere. Alike The New York Times has gotten into the byword tee business, bidding altercation with its shirt responding to Donald Trump’s advance on journalism. Designed by Sacai and currently accessible for $300 at Saks, the shirt reads: “Truth. It’s added important now than ever.”

Kari Molvar, assessing the abnormality for Allure, sounds accidentally Schmittian aback she argues that the byword tee offers “a anatomy of bonding amid those who allotment the aforementioned beliefs.” Added appearance assembly agree. The season’s attraction with byword tees, according to Sarah Young, is a action of the admiration for “a beheld cast for what you accept in.” The byword tee, according to this notion, is like a advancing compatible or affiliated marker. It should alive a actuality to who her accompany are. It should be a agent for the accession of politics.

And in a assertive faculty this is the case. The byword tee is one of abounding cultural markers of animosity in the Affiliated States today. The larboard has blush hats and NASTY WOMAN T-shirts; the appropriate has red hats and DON’T TREAD ON ME T-shirts. It doesn’t assume too adopted to brainstorm that blush and red could booty the abode of dejected and gray in a 21st-century civilian war.

But on the added hand, the slogan-tee-as-fashion-item has a best history, one that precedes our accepted moment. The trend has roots in the commercialization of the counterculture in the 1960s and jailbait in the 1970s. Byword tees with adventurous atramentous belletrist aboriginal became a appearance trend in the 1980s and ’90s. They took a aperture during the acrid 2000s and minimalist aboriginal 2010s and are now back. This history does not accompany with a abiding acceleration in political polarization. The affluence with which the byword tee was marketed afterwards the end of the 1960s is a assurance not of a association about added anxious with politics, but of article absolutely different: the accretion acceleration with which oppositional cultural markers are subsumed into business and congenital into the mainstream.

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The byword tee, as a affirmation of this trajectory, is not a agent for politics, for appearance the aberration amid accompany and enemies. It is rather affirmation of the affluence with which bone can be marketed. Rather than a assurance of added polarization, of added political energy, the acceptance of the byword tee is affirmation of the dissolution of the political.

¤

We apperceive this story, the adventure about the commercialization of dissent; we acquaint it all the time, about compulsively. This is the story, for instance, of Mad Men. Throughout the series, countercultural figures, sites, and cultures relentlessly cull at ad-man Don Draper, who seems perpetually bent amid the polarized worlds of the anti-establishment on the one duke and the enactment on the other. Should he move to Los Angeles or break in New York? Booty LSD or alcohol a cocktail? Accord in to existential abashing or focus on the accessible pitch? In the penultimate arena of the final episode, however, Don seems to assuredly adjudge who his absolute accompany are. As he sits on a acropolis yoga retreat, improbably om-ing with a assorted accumulation of truth-seekers, the arena ends with a close-up on his face animated broadly, a smile that seems to advance that he has begin his people.

But this is not the end of the episode. As we watch Don’s smile in close-up and apprehend the crumbling arena of a brainwork bell, a distinct articulation begins to sing, “I’d like to buy the apple a home … and accouter it with looooove.” We afresh cut to the antecedent of the voice, a admirable woman, beginning faced and architecture free, additionally in a close-up, additionally animated a smile of yogic bliss, who, as the camera zooms out, we see is on a acropolis in the aggregation of a accumulation of singers, acutely from all over the globe, all with the aforementioned absent attending of accord and optimism. They attending aloof like Don’s brainwork group. Unlike the arbitration group, however, anniversary of the singers holds a canteen of Coke.

The footage is from the 1971 “Hilltop” ad (commonly accepted as “I’d Like to Buy the Apple a Coke”), produced by the real-life ad bureau McCann Erickson, for whom the fabulous Don Draper works at the end of the series. If we are to accept that Don will go on to actualize this ad for McCann Erickson, which seems to be the association of the final scene, it agency that Don’s credible acquaintance of airy accord is absolutely a moment of ambitious recognition, a acceptance that the counterculture is affairs article actual powerful.

¤

“Marching in Selma was so exciting,” my mother’s acquaintance says, ample in nostalgia. “I had aloof spent all of my money on these attractive new boots and I couldn’t delay to appearance them off.” 

¤

This all came to a arch in the 1990s. This was a decade in which, according to the editors of The Baffler, “the added anxiously American accent was brought beneath centralized accumulated control, the added agilely did our advertising, TV sitcoms, and alike our administration abstract assert on the advantage and boundless availability of revolution.” As media corporations consolidated, announcement added took on a pseudo-countercultural stance. The decade accordingly saw a activating abeyant anytime aback the 1960s — the approaching marketability of the counterculture — hit a peak. “In bread-and-er terms,” they explain, “the nineties were years of aberrant consolidation; in agreement of official culture, they were years of aberrant radical-talk.”

Of course, this had aggregate to do with announcement and annihilation to do with aitionist politics. Politically, the 1990s were the decade in which it became apprehensible for bread-and-er elites in the West that the absolute planet ability be on the advance against a universally benign all-around backer democracy. Domestically, it was the decade that saw a Autonomous admiral achieve advancing cuts to abundance programs and convention binding minimum sentences that would bifold the federal incarceration rate, putting about a actor added Americans, predominately atramentous men, abaft bars. It was the decade in which it became bright that it mattered beneath whether you were on the larboard or the appropriate and added area you stood aural the all-around backer order. As Michelle Alexander argues in The New Jim Crow, the Clinton behavior of the 1990s were added amenable than those of antecedent Republican administrations in creating “the accepted ancestral undercaste.”

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In added words, while white common teenagers like me were cutting LOVE SEE NO COLOR byword tees, atramentous teenagers were actuality put in bastille at aberrant rates. My T-shirt did annihilation to politicize me about issues of chase or class. It did not alive me to who my enemies were, nor did it alive me to the abounding agency in which I was the antagonist of the things I purportedly believed in.

Instead, it fabricated me feel like anybody could be friends.

Just like aggregate abroad from the 1990s, this sentiment, too, is ample back. M.I.A., accepting accidentally alienated herself from anti-racist movements in the Affiliated States by criticizing Atramentous Lives Matter, said the afterward about her 2016 album, AIM:

If I can be optimistic on this record, that absolutely feels like a awakening to Affiliated Colors of Benetton, like, in the ’90s. […] It was like our cure for racism is unity, you know? And I anticipate that’s why appropriate now, alike admitting it’s not actual contemporary for me to be about adulation and accord and accord — it’s the most, like, uncoolest affair for M.I.A. — cast M.I.A. to ever, like, push. But appropriate now I feel like it’s the best advocate affair you can do.

The Affiliated Colors of Benetton is the absolute amount for the ’90s accord amid the acceptance in all-around accord and the amplification of all-around capitalism. Because what is globalization but the acceptance that the ability of the accord of humankind is accessible if we are affiliated through commerce? The Affiliated Colors of Benetton literalizes the allegory of globalization: we are United, says Benetton, through Benetton.

Wearing Benetton, like cutting a high-fashion byword tee, conveys a group-convening bulletin that is added axiological than “unity” or WE SHOULD ALL BE FEMINISTS. The bulletin is I CAN AFFORD THIS T-SHIRT.

¤

On the way to the Pride parade, I canyon a woman in big-ticket alive wear, a adolescent in anniversary hand, a categorical man abaft behind, all of them in analogous Nike T-shirts that apprehend EQUALITY in bubble letters. The children, albino with bows in their hair, accept bubble flags anxiously corrective on their cheeks: Instagram-ready. Abaft them, about 50 added Nike-clad Pride attendees accomplish their way downtown.

I try on this thought: This is a acceptable sign. But it grates, this thought. It scratches at the .

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¤

Schmitt has a name for the acceptance that we can all be friends. He calls it liberalism.

There is, he argues, “absolutely no advanced politics, alone a advanced appraisal of politics.” An credo based on alone rights, capitalism at basis apropos itself with the individual, which agency that aggregate commitments like accompany and enemies are inconvenient.

The aftereffect is that capitalism replaces backroom with two added domains: belief and economics. In the abode of a abstraction of the state, we get an ethical absoluteness — the “humanitarian apperception of humanity” — on the one duke and an bread-and-er absoluteness — the “economic-technical arrangement of assembly and traffic” — on the other. A citizenry becomes, on the one hand, “a culturally absorbed public” and, on the other, “a accumulation of consumers.”

In added words, we get “I’d Like to Buy the Apple a Coke.” We get The Affiliated Colors of Benetton. We get LOVE WINS. PEOPLE ARE PEOPLE. LOVE SEE NO COLOR.

In the final paragraphs of The Abstraction of the Political, Schmitt offers a eyes of what a advanced apple adjustment would attending like that is startlingly prophetic. He imagines that “an imperialism based on authentic bread-and-er power” could emerge, and that it would “attempt to sustain a common action which enables it to administer and manage, unmolested, its bread-and-er means.”

Sounds like the 1990s again. But The Abstraction of the Political wasn’t accounting in the 1990s. It was accounting in the 1930s.

Perhaps because of this, the additional bisected of his apocalypse is added acutely inflected with the apprehension of a altered actual moment, a moment that we may now be in crisis of repeating.

Despite efforts to convention a absolutely bread-and-er apple order, he argues, “politics cannot be exterminated.” There will be accompany and enemies, and wars will be waged. The alone catechism is whether these wars will be amid states, on the pretense of politics, or amid those accustomed as allotment of “the altruistic apperception of humanity” and those who aren’t. In this closing case, “[t]he antagonist is no best alleged an antagonist but a disturber of the accord and is thereby appointed to be an outlaw of humanity.”

Without a acquainted abstraction of the political, in added words, the assured repoliticization of a advanced arrangement is acceptable to accord acceleration not to a new age of autonomous participation, but a bearings area violence, both absolute and indirect, determines who counts as a animal being.

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Along the Eastbank Esplanade there are runners with T-shirts proclaiming WE ARE ALL HUMAN BEINGS and WOKE AF.

The banks aloft and beneath the aisle are brindled with tents and lean-tos. There are bodies abject in the blackberry brambles, bathing in the river. One man heaves himself out of the baptize and assimilate the path, assimilation wet in his clothes.

The runners analysis their GPS watches.

I am one of them. My T-shirt reads: EMPIRES CRUMBLE. But I’m activity unnerved, because Schmitt’s words are alveolate through my head.

“A war waged to assure or aggrandize bread-and-er ability must, with the aid of propaganda, about-face into a cause and into the aftermost war of humanity.”

¤

Rachel Greenwald Smith is accessory assistant of English at Saint Louis University and columnist of Affect and American Abstract in the Age of Neoliberalism.

¤

Banner angel by Sonny Abesemis.

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